I am now no longer willing or, indeed, able to work 80-hour weeks, and this plus current wait-times for tartan cloth means that I can no longer promise a ‘fixed’ date of completion.
If you have a certain deadline I’ll be able to tell you at once if it’s possible, I will work hard to meet that deadline, but I no longer make any promises.
‘Long-distance customers’ (ie; you are far away and unable to come to the shop for at least 3 appointments) will be considered on a case-by-case basis
How to place an Order
At the time of your order I shall measure you, take a 50% deposit and put your name and other information in the order book.
Upon receipt of your deposit I shall order the materials. If the cloth must be woven to order then we are looking at anywhere between 10 and 27 weeks for me to receive the cloth from time of order. Once I’ve received the cloth we’ll meet to decide such details as how you’d like it to be pleated, choice of buckle style, colour of leather straps and lining.
I’ll call you in for a ‘forward’ (trial) fitting about halfway through the process, and then a ‘final fitting’, after which you should be able to take the kilt away with you.
Most cloth mills will only weave what they believe will sell within a certain period. If you can’t find the tartan you want then you can either order a ‘Full Piece” – which is generally 54” wide and at least 30 yards long (and ‘bang’ goes about ₤2000) – or go without.
I am very fortunate to do business with the firm of DC Dalgliesh, a custom weaver who to date has woven anything I have asked him to, and whose minimum order is only 4 yards of cloth!
For years DC Dalgliesh had produced one-of-a-kind custom cloth at the same price as ‘stock’ orders –and that ‘unit’ price for ‘superior’ cloth was competitive to the prices asked for the dross made by other mills – and for years I wondered HOW they managed to do so without losing money.
The simple answer is “they couldn’t”, and so they now must charge a very reasonable set-up fee of ₤100 Sterling for each order for custom work.
As I’ve already mentioned, custom orders can take anywhere between 10 and 27 weeks, depending on the mill’s volume of work. It is well worth the wait, as the quality of this custom cloth is by far the best in the industry.
I MUCH prefer to take the measurements myself, but I must accept that this will not be possible in all cases.
Should it not be possible for you to visit me in person then we’ll just have to spend a little more time with email and digital photos to ensure the perfect fit that is my service to you.
How to measure yourself:
It would be best if you had someone to help when you do this.
A) Waist measurement
Stand in your normal posture and lay your hand on your stomach, with your ring-finger centered on your navel. The upper edge of your index finger represents the top edge of your kilt. Have your helper measure your circumference at this point. Ensure that the cloth measuring tape is horizontal and that the tension of the tape is equal to the waistband of your pants, or slightly more snug. Before you release the measuring tape, mark the centre of your back where the tape crosses your spine.
nb: don’t be annoyed that the measurement is radically different from your trouser-size – retail clothiers lie about sizes.
B) Hip measurement
Make the same measurement around the widest part of your seat. Unlike the waist measurement which was quite snug, this time the tape should be just tight enough so that it doesn’t fall down. Make sure that your pockets are empty before you take this measurement!
C) Fell measurement
Measure from ’A’ to ‘B’.
Measure from A (natural waist) down the side of the body to a point even with the top of the kneecap.
It is commonly believed that the correct length of a kilt is determined by kneeling and then measuring the distance from the natural waist to the floor.
I have NEVER found this to be an accurate measurement in all my years in the Trade. Rather, a kilt that brushes the floor when one is kneeling is nearly two inches too long!
E) Height & Posture
Finally, tell me your height and a frank assessment of your posture (erect/stooped) and build (skeletal/skinny/athletic/sturdy/slight paunch/heavy/obese/planetary/oh-my-gods-is-your-name-‘Jupiter’).
I will ask for front/side/rear photos of you – wearing shirt tucked into trousers – as well.
I import my kilt-cloth from Scotland,and currency-exchange rates change daily, so all prices will be agreed upon at time of order.
Tartan Trews, both ‘made-to-measure’ and ‘made-bespoke’ in ANY tartan – cut and sewn to the style popular ca.1880-1900 (one inside seam on the leg, one front fob and one rear pocket. $POR
|For kilts made from Stock Tartans
|$POR (Price on Request)
|For kilts made from Custom-Woven Cloth.
|All kilts are of 16 oz. pure new wool cloth entirely hand-sewn to order. All workmanship to meet or exceed ca. 1914 British War Office specifications. Workmanship warranted for the life of the garment.Military Kilts: Sewn to the old War Office specifications..
|Box pleats; add
|CMT (Cut, Make and Trim): 7- or 8-yard kilt using the customer’s own kilt-cloth. cost includes all other materials (canvas, lining, buckles and straps
|Kilt repairs and refurbishments:
Generally, any kilt that the tartan cloth is not completely torn or shot full of holes can be restored. I will supply a written quote after inspecting the garment. All work warranted.
|Kilt jackets ‘cut-away’
|Gentleman’s Inverness Cape: Heavy melton wool, silk lining, 2 exterior patch pockets, one deep interior breast pocket, large Rifle Regiment pattern bone buttons or leather buttons. Made to measure and entirely hand-sewn. Weighs a ton and stops the wind like a brick wall.
|Tartan Design Service: charged by the hour. Generally this comes to around $400.00 and includes submission of the new Sett to the Scottish Tartans Authority for registration.
Methods of payment:
I accept payment by cash, e-transfer, cheque or PayPal. Payment is due before the kilt leaves my shop.